My trip is nearly over! Tickets have been booked for a Monday departure, and my check-in bags have pretty much been packed. We're taking advantage of these last 2-3 days to explore the northern part of Israel, and hired a cab driver, Shuki (who came highly recommended by the guest relations manager, Marcel Salomon, at the Dan Panorama where we're staying), to take us touring.
More details later, but since it's been a while since I've updated this and I don't have much time before bed, I'll just mention a few funny things that happened tonight.
So, we've been pretty desperate for a few days now to pick up some hard drives, a) to back-up the gigs and gigs of photographs we've been taking, and b) to make a copy of all the wedding pictures and ship them to the relevant families. As it so happens, while heading from Haipha to Tiberias, I had spotted an Office Depot along the way, except we were in a hurry to get somewhere else at the time, and so skipped it.
Well, one thing I've discovered in Israel is that, a) if you miss a turn, it will be a (long) while before you'll have a chance to make the equivalent of a u-turn, and b) good luck in finding your way to any store you want to get you, even if its two foot tall glowing neon sign is right there centered in your windshield.
Here is how it went: we spend a few minutes going in the wrong direction trying to find a break in the center divider so that we can turn around. Then it's another 5-10 minutes going back in the right direction. We manage to turn into the plaza just fine, but even though there are glowing Office Depot signs on three different walls? All three of us (Louis, myself, and the driver) end up having to scout for its entrance and, in the end, didn't find it without help.
I went first, and ended up where it looked like Office Depot stored some of its back-stock. Louis and Shuki went next, and they found this dark looking "entrance" where a host of other people were standing around waiting:
The point of this is that it was about 6 pm Saturday evening. Shabbath, according to local custom, is observed from sundown on Friday till sundown on Saturday. One is not supposed to work (thus, most stores/kosher restaurants/etc are closed during this time period), travel, touch money, etc. So, seeing all these people hanging about, we naturally assumed that they were would-be shoppers waiting to stampede the mall as soon as it opens. Louis even made the snark that 90% of those standing around are women awaiting the opening of the doors.
Well, as it so happened, this was an employee entrance, and when we tried to trail in after them, a lady kindly toldd us we weren't allowed. After explaining our confusion, she led us around to the
real entrance to the mall - which ended up being on the total
opposite end of the block, facing away from all streets leading to the plaza. Office Depot, when we finally found its official entrance, was only a small little front in one corner in the mall ... and was very, very closed. Until 7 pm, its sign said.
Unwilling to wait, we moved on to Tiberias, where the driver introduced us to a surprisingly fabulous Asian restaurant, The Pagoda, which I've
written up here. However, just before that, we made one last effort to find a computer electronics store, and as it so happened, there was yet another Office Depot in the neighborhood.
Sadly, when we found it, it was also closed - the guess is that the owner did not feel it worth the effort to reopen it after Shabbath on Saturday. However, just a block before it was a Big Electronics or something or other - apparently, a big chain in Israel which carries appliances and computer equipment. Sometimes. Because when we finally figured our way to the store (it took 4 turns and 2 u-turns to find our way to its door
even though it was on the block right before Office Depot and we could see its sign glowing right next to the road up on a slope), this particular branch only carried appliances and no computer equipment.
We were about to give it up when the driver spotted another store across the street (something which starts with a K but which name I can't remember now), and swears that they would have what we needed. Grasping at the last straw, we straggled in, and was met by the bewildering sight of a mobile-sized store hosting everything from knick-knacks and school supplies to, yes, a (very limited) selection of laptops, computer accessories, etc. Suffice to say, we found our external computer hard drives, and finally left with our prize.
Unfortunately, as we left, the rear wheel of the cab hit a curb and gave Louis a hard jostle; enough to bump his head and give him a bit of a stiff neck and a headache. I suggested he take a painkiller and that we find a cafe, as caffeine helps the brain take up painkillers, and so then the hunt began for some coffee.
A nice waitress at The Pagoda suggested the
Greg Cafe, and gave our driver approximate directions - later, we learned that they were more or less something along the lines of "go to this road and take it all the way to the end, you'll see it on the side". Because we ended up on some (mostly isolated at this hour) winding mountain road for the better part of a quarter of an hour, and poor Shuki must have stopped at least half a dozen times to ask for directions (and one time we were nearly mobbed by three teenaged girls at a gas station looking for a cab ride - Louis was very disappointed that Shuki told them we had no room). In fact, when we finally
did find the plaza in which it was located, we could see the signs of all the shops glowing out across a scraggly field half a block away - but it literally took us another five minutes of exploration, involving two u-turns and three left turns after finding the correct entrance through the field, to finally make our way over to the little strip mall. (Marcel had, earlier, made a big deal to Louis about visiting a particular city which he says had been "planned" from start to finish - I am beginning to get an idea as to how extraordinary such a feat is for Israel now, considering all our misadventures with respect to reaching merchants. They certainly don't make it easy for customers to give them their patronage and money!)

However, Shuki persevered, and we were richly rewarded. Not only did Greg Cafe serve Jamaican Blue Coffee, Louis' long-time favorite and which he special orders for all of our company meetings, but they also served a (what I had heretofore thought was a unique) thick, pudding-like "hot chocolate" ... two things which I had previously associated only with the
Caffe del Doge. It was like a little slice of Palo Alto, CA had been transplanted into Israel, and it was beautiful. The decor and atmosphere would definitely not have been out of place in any American university town, and the wait-staff was incredible. Within two minutes Louis was demanding that we return for breakfast. Needless to say, he was a happy man tonight.
Oh yeah, and here's a cute little smiley Louis made in his Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee with the del Doge-like pudding hot chocolate, complete with Greg Cafe's logo on the side of the mug: